August 15, 2020

Not too long ago, lipid oils and carrier oils were not nearly as prevalent or diverse as they are now!

But rose hip seed oil has been around for a long time. It is one of the tried and true, an old stand by in the natural beauty world that I began using in 1996.

So for this late summer project, I want to make a facial oil with rose hip seed oil at its heart.

My background in gardening and herbalism leads me to working with oils from within the same plant family and the rose plant family is one that is particularly generous in the realm of lipid gifts.

12 Lipid Oils from the Rose Family

From this one family we have:

  • Plum kernel oil
  • Peach kernel oil
  • Almond oil
  • Apricot kernel oil
  • Rose hip seed oil
  • Raspberry seed oil
  • Blackberry seed oil
  • Quince seed oil
  • Apple seed oil
  • Cherry kernel oil
  • Strawberry seed oil
  • Cloud berry seed oil

This is twelve oils so far from this botanical family!

In this video I introduce you to some of these wonderful rose family lipids!

What is interesting about the family is that we have two types of oils.

The oils from the stone fruits that are high in Oleic acid, tend to be pale in color and make good base oils.

Then we have the berry and shrub oils that are high in Linoleic and alpha-Linolenic acid, the two essential fatty acids. These tend to be more deeply pigmented and often rich in antioxidants and other plant compounds if not overly refined.

Raspberry seed oil is high in both essential fatty acids

So for this facial oil, I selected a base of apricot kernel oils and plum kernel oil, and then added some rosehip seed oil along with raspberry seed oil and blackberry seed oil.

Our Rose Lipid Recipe

The recipe below is in parts.

2 parts apricot kernel oil
2 parts plum oil
1 part rose hip seed oil
1 part blackberry seed oil
1/2 parts raspberry seed oil

Before shaking, the dark colored blackberry seed oil is suspended in the middle of the bottle.

A note on rose hip seed oil and pigment

I’ve seen rosehip seed oils that are bright red in color and others that are quite pale. The lipid oils can vary quite a bit depending on the method and amount of refining involved!

If you have a highly pigmented rosehip seed oil, you can dilute it with almond oil or another neutral oil from the rose family.

I’ve found a 1:6 ratio works well. You still get the skin nourishing benefits of the rose hip seed oil without creating a combination that might turn your skin temporarily orange!

Rosehip seed oil ranges from pale gold to deep red.

In this recipe we find a nice balance of skin nourishing base oils.

Variations and Substitutions

Both apricot kernel oil and plum seed oil are high in the monounsaturated fatty acid oleic acid. They tend to be minimally pigmented with mild to no scent.

You could substitute peach kernel oil or almond oil for either of the two here.

The rosehip seed oil contributes the two essential fatty acids and if an unrefined version a good dose of antioxidant carotenoid pro-vitamin A.

The berry oils, in this recipe blackberry and raspberry seed oils are both high in the two essential fatty acids, linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid.

They are also both, rich sources of anti-oxidants.

Have you worked with any of these rose family lipids recently? Share in the comments below.

    • Most oils are slightly yellow so a blue colors going to be hard to achieve – they will turn out more green than blue. But you could experiment with the clearest oils and let us know. Good luck

        • Hi Amy, No, haven’t tried indigo powder in oil – experiment would be my suggestion. If you are looking for the color you might need to do more than just infuse. Doesn’t the color develop after a period of soaking then exposing to light? Anyway have fun

          • I just finished your oils class and it was so GREAT 🙂 Thank you.

            As for the Indigo…it is hard to find information on the uses. There are a few studies that say it’s good for rash skin. I did infuse some organic indigo powder in oil and I think it’s just such a fine particulate the oil is now blue. As a natural dyer working with fiber the process is: A very alkaline water vat has had all excess oxygen removed so the indigo molecule can bond with the water molecule and it then reduces and becomes yellowish As you dip and then remove your fiber back into the oxygen the indigotin turns blue again. You do this over and over for depth of shade. I will let you know how my oil feels on the skin and if it’s just too messy to deal with! I can’t wait to take another class with you!

  • My Dream is to make my own perfume body all purpose oil that’s also healing to the skin, I work with essential oil but this is good I’m definitely going to order..Thank you

  • Thank you, Susan. This was timely, as I’m making a new batch of face serum this afternoon, and will use these oils instead of my usual oils. I’m missing blackberry, but it looks so lovely in the photo that I’m ordering it today. I appreciate your generosity in sharing your knowledge.

  • I love the way the blackberry seed is suspended there…. just waiting… I have your Power of The Seed on the shelf infront of me…so glad you wrote it. It’s well thumbed with oil stains 🙂

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